Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Maine 2018 - Portland

After disembarking The Angelique in Camden, I drove through Maine going south to Portland. I was scheduled to fly out of Portland Jetport very early the following morning so I booked an Airbnb in South Portland, close to the airport. The fall colors were very prominent  on my drive down the state. I saw brilliant trees reflecting in water, fabulous farms with old barns, antique shops, cider presses, and little towns along the way. I had one destination in mind, Cape Elizabeth and Portland Head Light.

Portland Head Light, Cape Elizabeth, Maine

After checking into my Airbnb and getting a much needed shower, I headed over to Fort Williams Park to see this spectacular and historic sight. I have always enjoyed old building and have painted many but one of my favorite paintings I create using a photograph as a model was of this majestic tower. I painted it years ago but still have the painting in my inventory.  Once I viewed it from the place the photograph was taken, I felt much better about the painting and took a deep breathe of sea air. This is a most beautiful old building. The keepers house is now a museum, so I paid the two dollars to go inside and learn more about the place. It was one of the first building commissioned by the federal government after the formation of our nation. It is rich in history and the stories of the place are worth being told.

After my tour of the lighthouse I hiked around the park. I found the fall colors much brighter in this part of the state. On the northern coast, there are many evergreen trees but here there was a fine mixture of many different type of vegetation. The grounds were lovely and of course there were lobster rolls sold out of food trucks and a gift shop.

Fall colors in Fort Williams Park, Maine

The weather was misty and chilly, so I had spent enough time wondering around. It was time for me to go find dinner. I ended up at a local pizza parlor and bar for a local brew and veggie pizza. It was delicious but I didn't stay long. I wanted to get to sleep so I could get up in time to make my flight. Maine is a wonderful place to visit. I recommend it to everyone looking for a laid back vacation away from their normal hustle and bustle life.

Maine 2018 - Windjammer Cruise on The Angelique

Windjammer Angelique


The Maine Windjammer Cruises was just what I was looking for when I decided to go to Maine. I have a bucket list and one of the items was to take a windjammer cruise. I didn't want to go on a floating resort cruise but one where I really felt I was sailing, and sail I did!

This was more than a cruise, it was the experience of a lifetime. After touring Maine, I drove back to Camden to board The Angelique. It was docked in Camden Harbor. Twenty-seven passengers were expected. I was shown to my cabin. I expected to share one but a couple cancelled due to illness so I luckily got the cabin to myself. One word of caution to anyone interested in sailing on a schooner, do not bring a large suitcase. I didn't think about the accommodations when I packed so I took a big suitcase. I was thinking I needed lots of winter clothes and a large suitcase to hold them all but it was cumbersome in the small cabin. Had I had to share the cabin, it would not have been possible with my big bag.

I boarded the boat in the evening. The first night was spent docked and we sailed on the morning tide. Captain Dennis had a very strict rule, turn off your cell phones. Wow! I was not expecting this either but I now know it was a great rule. Nobody wanted to hear other people's phone ring. Besides there was pretty bad reception out on Penobscot Bay. The destination was Camden. The entire cruise was determined by the wind.

The first night was cold, down in the thirties, and the hatches were open. Two wool blankets and a duvet were provided for warmth. The following morning was fantastic. The breakfast was served below deck but before breakfast, each morning, coffee and baked goods were available. The food was delicious they entire cruise and the staff was accommodating to all the needs of the guests.

We sailed out of the harbor in the fresh morning air. The sun came out to accompany us on our way and warm up the deck. The wind was in ready to take the sail as not only the deck hands but also the guests hoisted the sails, sailing out into Penobscot Bay.  We all waved goodbye to the spectators on shore. The Angelique s a magnificent schooner, impressive, sleek, and perfect.


Curtis Island Light
I can't say where we sailed in Penobscot Bay. I looked at the nautical chart and saw islands, I wouldn't presume to know all the names. The sailing was beautiful, no motor, nothing but the wind to take us where it wished. The bay is dotted with small islands, like big rocks, sticking up out of the water. Some with vegetation, some without, most uninhabited. We sailed all day, enjoying the peace, no cell phones, no television, no computers. Many found a spot on deck to just sit, sip their favorite beverage, read, enjoy the scenery, talk and make friends, and lend a hand when needed.

Day two of the cruise we had a surprise. A lobster bake on the beach! Captain Dennis found a lovely island with a public beach. He set the anchor. We all got into row boats and rowed to the island. I was excited to get to row. It was so much fun. There was a cooler full of live lobster onboard. The crew members went ashore first in the motor boat and took all the provisions, the lobster and sides. A huge fire was built and a metal tub was placed over the flames with a couple of inches of water, then the lobster covered with seaweed and steamed for about forty five minutes. Potato salad and coleslaw was served on the side. I had my first whole lobster, while sitting on a piece of driftwood, drinking a paper cup full of wine. It was delicious.

A cooler full of live lobster ready to be baked

Day three of the cruise the wind kicked up and we really went sailing. Captain Dennis was excited that we had clear skies and a fantastic  wind. This was his final sail of the year and he let The Angelique fill her sails and take us for a ride. Hold on to your hats, this is what we came for! Waves crashed against the sides of the boat as we sliced through the water. The Penobscot Bay was ours. We all felt like we had gone back in time to when schooner were the major mode of transportation along the Eastern Seaboard. The big red sails billowed and snapped but Captain Dennis was in charge and loving it. After a fun day of sailing and dinner on deck, we piled into the deck house for an impromptu  sing along. One deck hand and a passenger played guitars as we sang songs and sipped drinks. The stars were bright, the air fresh, and the company was wonderful. By this time we were all fast friends, almost like a family. One of the passengers had a birthday, so we sang to her and ate cake.

Sunshine and great sailing on The Angelique
Waking up on the last day, we could almost feel the disappointment in the air. Nobody wanted the cruise to end but we were due to sail back to Camden and dock. It was an experience I'll never forget. I might even go back to do it again. I love The Angelique, Captain Dennis and crew, and Penobscot Bay.

Sunday, October 21, 2018

Maine 2018 - Rockport & Rockland

On my third full day, I began by packing my bag and checking out of my Airbnb. That night I would be shipboard. Since travelling north the day before, I decided to go south and see what there was to see. I followed US Route 1 South in search for some famous Maine Blueberry Pancakes. I was determined I would try all the local cuisine. I drove down the road looking for a small mom & pop breakfast stop and saw one as I drove by. I was so hungry I turned around and found myself at The Home Kitchen Café in Rockport. The place was packed so I knew I found the best place in town. The pancakes were awesome and filled me up for the rest of the day.

I pushed on to Owl's Head Lighthouse in Owl's Head, Maine. The view from the peninsula was spectacular. I walked all the way up the stairs going to the lighthouse, visited the museum located in the lightkeepers house, and took a hike down to the rock covered beach. What a lovely spot! The air was fresh with the seabreeze and the sound of the waves lapping the rocks was overwhelmingly musical. I closed my eyes and allowed my other senses to take over. It was very relaxing and enjoyable.

Owl's Head Lighthouse 1825, Maine
Owl's Head Beach, Maine

I also stopped at another park called Birch Beach which was closed for the season but I didn't let that stop me. I parked the car and walked about a half of a mile down the road. If the weather had been warmer I would have loved to jump in the water. Most of the beaches I saw in Maine were spectacularly rocky, scattered with granite from small pebbles to huge boulders. Birch Beach was exceptional with soft sand and protected from the elements with a curtain of birch trees. It is an unsung gem.


Birch Beach, Maine
My next stop was Rockland, where it was said there are over thirty art galleries. I visited as many as I could while there and met some fantastic local artists. Being an artist myself, I found the co-op and locally owned galleries most fascinating. They were all busy getting ready for an artwalk that evening. I wish I could have spent more time there but The Angelique was calling.


Maine 2018 - Bar Harbor & Acadia

One my second full day in Maine, I went to one of the places that topped my list, Acadia National Park. This is one of the nations most beautiful places on the east coast. It is located on Mount Desert Island accessible via State Route 3. On a map it looks pretty close to Camden, where I was staying, but only if you go by water. Maine has many little islands along the coast and roads are built on the easiest terrane so in order to get where you want to go, you must allow plenty of driving time.

I didn't stop on my route but drove straight to Bar Harbor. It is a very quaint little town built solely on the tourist trade, with little shops dotting the main thorough fair, medium sized harbor, hotels, and tours to the park. The first thing I did was look around for some breakfast, so I stopped into an Irish Pub and ordered beer and a halibut sandwich. After my delicious brunch, I took a stroll  through town.

Downtown Bar Harbor

Ivy Manor Inn, Bar Harbor, Maine
 I didn't spend much time on Bar Harbor before I found the office for Acadia National Park, bought a pass and got instructions on where to go and what to see. The day was rather gray and misty but I made the most of it. I drove into the park. There are many hiking trails, carriage roads, and tours on horseback but most of those began early in the morning and I was too late. Despite the weather and limited time, I found the park enchanting and beautiful.

Autumn in Acadia National Park, Maine

I drove through the park and stopped at all the points of interest. The fall colors were just beginning to peak, yet the forest was thick with leaves. Flowers of all types covered the ground. Ferns were turning bright orange and gold, and the evergreens and birch made a fantastic home for creatures of all types. Driving through the park, visitors see all types of terrain, from rocky seashore to thick native forest, and even the top of Cadillac Mountain. Unfortunately, the day I visited, the weather was not cooperating. I got to the top of the mountain and found myself in a cloud. The mist was so thick, the breeze was chilly and the wind sharp. There was no visibility for photography. Nevertheless, I felt a profound sense of oneness with the mountain and a fresh respect for nature. I highly recommend spending at least a day at Acadia when visiting Maine. It is a must see and feel experience.

After spending a great deal of time in Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park, I drove back to Camden and arrived in time to once again enjoy waterfront dining. I had broiled scallops, prepared just right, then wandered over to the bar for a beer before heading back to my Airbnb for the night.

Saturday, October 20, 2018

Maine 2018 - Exploring Camden

Camden, Maine is a sleepy little town with a population of about five thousand. The harbor, shops and people make this place special. The first full day of my trip, I decided to check out this place. I had a great night's sleep at John's house, my Airbnb. In the morning, I talked to him for awhile while enjoying my coffee. He told me I could just walk into town from his place but since I arrived the night before in the pouring rain and the blackness of night, I was not well acclimated yet. I decided to take a drive around town.

I quickly found out that the town is rather quaint and historical.  It was built around a beautiful little harbor that is a jewel on the coast of Maine. I drove through Main St. and found a spot to park beside the library next to the park. It was a perfect morning to explore but I was hungry. In a few steps, I found myself standing outside a local diner, being beckoned by the smell of coffee and a blackboard announcing the morning special as lobster omelet. I was sold. I ordered at the counter and walked to the back of the shop finding a seat at a small table next to a glass wall overlooking the harbor. Now this was vacation! Lobster omelets and coffee on the water, soft music playing in the background and time to make plans for the day.

I loved the look of this little town with all the quaint shops so after breakfast I strolled down Main St. stopping into each shop. I bought a few gifts for the people back home, then found a fantastic wine shop. I asked the proprietor if he featured any local wines and he told me about a winery just outside of town, Cellardoor. I stopped in a few more shops on the way to my car but I knew I just had to go visit this winery.



Barrels of aging wine at Cellardoor Winery, Lincolnville, Maine




It took me about twenty minutes to find Cellardoor Winery. I was pleasantly surprised to find tastings are free. I took four free tastings then selected a full glass of Pinot Noir for only eight dollars. The wine was delicious. Wine tasting is one of my favorite leisure activities, especially in a winery. This winery was special. At two every afternoon, they treat guests to a free tour. I stuck around to take advantage. The grounds were lovely. The tasting room was in an old barn renovated to accommodate not only the bar but also events like weddings and parties. The actual winery was on the other side of the road, up the hill, past the old orchard and in a new metal building. The hostess was informative and the tour was fun. I ended up buying a bottle of wine to take home.

Then I found Camden Hills State Park. For six dollars, I purchased a day pass. Camden Hills is the home of Mount Battie. I drove all around the park then up to the summit of the mountain that overlooks the beautiful town of Camden and Camden Harbor. Excellent views of Penobscot Bay are also to be enjoyed. There is even a tower for viewing this lovely vista, The weather was clear and crisp. I got some great shots of the area. The park also offers hiking trails and other outdoor activities.




Viewing tower on top of Mt. Battie, Camden Hills State Park, Camden, Maine




I ended my day of exploration by dining on the waterfront, sampling the local crabcakes and beer, overlooking the harbor and relaxing beside a fireplace in a local restaurant. I then walked across the street to a bar, had another beer then walked back to my Airbnb. It was a lovely beginning to my Maine vacation. The air was not too cold and the trees were just beginning to change color. 

Maine 2018 - Preparation and Arrival

Autumn in Maine is spectacular. In the opinion of many, it is the time to go and experience all Maine has to offer. Maine is one of the places I had on my bucket list.

When I was very young, I told myself that I would travel to all fifty states. I had been to all of the lower forty-eight except for Maine. I had always put it off because it seemed so far since I live in Texas.

I found out that travel to Maine can be very affordable. When planning my trip to Maine, I first needed to decide what I wanted to do once I got there. A friend had recently taken a cruise, so I decided that I wanted to take a cruise but I didn't want to take just any kind of cruise, I wanted to sail.

I was sitting in the waiting room of a doctor's office and saw a travel magazine. I started flipping through the pages and saw advertisements for cruises in Maine. Way in the back was a very small ad for Maine Windjammer Cruises. Yes! This is what I wanted to do. I wanted to sail on a schooner. I got out my phone and looked up the website. When I got home I looked it up so I could read all the details at leisure.

Maine Windjammer Cruises is a small fleet of boats which sail from the harbor of Camden, Maine. I had not done much research on Maine at that point, so I didn't know much about Camden. It was getting late in the season so I decided I was going to do it this year and booked myself on the last cruise of the year aboard The Angelique.

The Angelique in Camden Harbor, Maine


Sailing on the Angelique was surprisingly very affordable. I booked a four day / three night cruise for less than six hundred dollars, all inclusive. It was the Columbus Day Weekend special and the last windjammer cruise to sail from Camden in 2018.

I had planned to be gone for a week so I needed more things to do in Maine. Another bucket list item was to visit Portland Light Head, the countries first lighthouse commissioned by George Washington. I had seen many pictures of it and had even painted it several times. I knew it was located near Portland in Port Elizabeth, Maine. I also wanted to visit Acadia National Park. Another bucket list item for me is to visit all the national parks, so since I was going to Maine, I might as well begin working on that item too.

Now that I had an idea of where I wanted to go and what I wanted to see, I decided to make a timeline. I had already booked my cruise, so I needed to book a flight. I hunted travel website to find a good deal and decided to travel on Tuesday. It looked like the cheapest day of the week for flying. I booked round trip airfare, Houston to Portland, for one Tuesday, returning the following Tuesday, for under four hundred dollars. I felt that was a bargain.

Then I needed a place to stay. I had never tried this before but my daughter recommended I find an Airbnb. I booked three nights in Camden for thirty-two dollars a night which included breakfast for the time prior to the cruise and one night in Portland following the cruise for fifty-five dollars. Each place was clean, relatively private, and secure. I really felt comfortable staying in these homes. They were both close to where I wanted to go and certainly beat hotel prices.

I rented a car to get me around during my visit for less than two hundred plus gas. It was the only way to visit the places I wanted to go.

I got to Maine rather late on Tuesday evening. It was dark and rainy. I got my rental car and luckily had GPS on my cell phone so I would know where I was going once I left the Portland Jetport. I immediately got lost and went the wrong way out of the airport in order to find my way to Camden, presumably an hour and a half drive north on US Route number one. I live in Katy, Texas, a suburb of Houston where there is so much light on the main highways it seems to be daylight at night but not in Maine. There are only two highways in Maine and US Route number one is not one of them. It is a two lane road for the most part, which meanders along the coast weaving between island towns and winding around hills and mountains. The rain was coming down in sheets and it was a dark like I hadn't experienced in years. My first experience in Maine was like the opening pages of a Stephan King novel. Now I know where he gets his ideas. I felt like I drove forever at forty miles an hour to get to the small port of Camden. Once I finally found my Airbnb, I was exhausted and hungry. Fortunately, my host, John was there to greet me, help me to my room and offered me pie so I didn't need to go back out in the weather. He was great! I ate the pie and fell into bed.

My Airbnb in Camden, Maine